Every stone tells a story

There is something truly special about a piece of jewellery. 

From cherished heirlooms to bespoke pieces to mark an occasion, jewellery can be woven through with story and meaning. 

This combination of creativity and storytelling is what keeps goldsmith and jewellery designer Tuula Harrington making beautiful things in the heart of Cork City.

Harrington and her partner Callum Shaw run Designworks Goldsmiths Studio on Cork’s Cornmarket Street. With a workshop and jewellery store on site, it has become a destination store for lovers of both bespoke and in-store jewellery.

Combining traditional artistry with cutting-edge design, authenticity is at the heart of every piece.

Harrington’s 30-year career began with an apprenticeship under master goldsmith Gabrielle Müller Heffter in Italy. 

She went on to launch her first retail store in Cork in 2007, and Designworks opened in 2011. “I've been very fortunate to have this career,” Harrington says. 

“I'm just one of those people who have been made to work with their hands. I get the satisfaction of crafting, of designing. It can be challenging, but it’s never boring. Your design evolves, your business evolves, it’s not a static thing.” 

This evolution has seen Designworks adopt state-of-the-art technology when it comes to design, but one of the things Harrington loves most is working with natural materials.

“I could talk about that for days,” she laughs. “It’s historic, it's cultural, it's so embedded in civilisation. We're going back to ancient times when people found gold and diamonds fascinating, and how those things have developed over time. 

"It’s just a fascinating world. I think if it wasn't natural, if it didn't come from the earth, it wouldn't be as fascinating. I don't believe the same thing happens when it's a synthetic stone.” 

In recent years, the trend towards lab-grown diamonds has prompted a debate around mass-produced diamonds versus natural stones. 

Harrington admits it was tempting to “jump on the bandwagon” at first, but after researching it, she realised synthetic gems weren’t for her. 

“We looked into it quite a lot. It didn’t go with what I had been working with my whole career, and what fits with our ethos,” she explains. 

“For us, what’s important is finding and sourcing gemstones, especially diamonds, through reliable sources. Being able to ascertain where those stones come from and how the revenue is passed on, and that’s when we came across the Botswana story.” 

It's no secret that the diamond trade has a troubled history, but as Harrington explains, it is not what it once was. 

Botswana in Africa is leading the way and, thanks to a government initiative spearheaded by former president, Festus Mogae, it is now a champion of ethical diamond production. 

Today, Botswana has a strong reputation for ethical labour practices, and diamond industry revenue has been reinvested into national development, helping to fund hospitals, schools, infrastructure, and health initiatives. 

“The whole industry is really looking to the Botswana model of doing things,” Harrington says. 

“It’s about good governance, sustainability, and environmental and social impact. They’ve made a massive difference to their country in a positive way.” 

Here in Ireland, an increasingly informed consumer wants to know, not just where their diamond is from, but how it was obtained. 

Designworks recently commissioned a survey by Opinions Market Research which found that three-quarters of people felt it was important that their diamond was ethically sourced. 

It’s a relatively new conversation and, as Harrington points out, there was little traceability up until recently because no one really asked the question. 

The industry is changing now, and advancements mean it is getting easier for makers to obtain that information and pass it to their customers.

Designworks is the first jewellery store in Ireland to partner with iTraceit, a blockchain ledger company specifically aimed at the jewellery market. 

The partnership is showcased through the ‘Origins’ diamond collection. 

“That was the first diamond collection we've done solely with Botswanamark Diamonds,” Harrington explains. 

As for the rings themselves, they’re inspired by the islands off the coast of Ireland. 

“The islands are all individual, none of them are the same,” Harrington says, “and we wanted to do something different with our rings. We've always worked on our own unique designs, but it’s a cohesive collection that puts our design element forward.” 

Each 'Origins' piece comes with a scannable iTraceit QR code. This ‘digital ledger’ provides information on who designed the piece, who the goldsmith was, who it was designed for and where the diamonds were sourced.

As well as offering customers peace of mind, it is also a snapshot of the history of what is likely to be a future family heirloom.

“We’ve gone to the extent of verifying where our products come from, and we want to be able to pass that security and knowledge onto our customers,” Harrington says. 

“So 30 or 40 years from now, when somebody opens up that old jewellery box, they can say, ‘Oh wow, look at that. There's the digital ledger for Mum's ring that she got made. This is a real treasure.’ 

"Sourcing the correct way is not just about what we do or where we buy our stones from,” she continues. 

“It’s all about the way countries, businesses, and everything are run. It has to be the full package, that’s important to us. 

"It’s all part and parcel of what makes a beautiful piece beautiful. It's not just aesthetics. It's also about the workmanship and the story behind everything that went into it.” 

• Address: Designworks Goldsmiths Studio, Cornmarket Street, Cork, T12 F9P7
• Website: designworksstudio.ie 
• Follow: Designworks Goldsmiths Studio on Facebook and Instagram @designworksstudiocork